Sunday, November 22, 2009

Asheville 2009

Asheville is one of the great cities of the planet. It is in every sense of the phrase, a Dickens of a town, and I can only wish that the marvelous Charles had placed one of his fabulously intricated stories in this awesome place. It is clearly the best of towns, and it is also the worst of towns. I've traveled a bit and there aren't very many Ashevilles around.

We had a quick ride over from Hickory and enjoyed beautiful weather during our stay this year. Went straight to Tops For Shoes to shop and buy, and we walked out in style to The Table for lunch. Even though we eat vegetarian most of the time, I had discovered The Hanger Steak that they serve here at The Table and it reminds me so much of all those great and wonderful steaks I ate back in my Air Force days, back when I ate steak every night for 12 straight years (well, more or less). So that’s what I had. Wonderful. Wonderful. Wonderful. Even if you don't want to go to Asheville for any other reason, go anyway so you can eat a Hanger Steak at The Table.

Pack Square is continuing to show its constant change as this long period of construction begins to reach its climax. Can't wait to see the next rendition of Shindig on the Green.

Went into the Asheville Art Museum and found out they are allergic to cameras. They have a sign saying “no pictures”, but the lady at the desk said I couldn’t even take my camera with me inside. Clearly they don’t trust photographers, and won’t let you go inside unless you give them your camera. I even pointed out that I could put it in my bag and they said the bag wasn’t allowed in either. They don’t have any lockers to use so they want your camera. I mentioned that the great museums of Athens, Madrid, Vienna, the Louvre and D’orsey in Paris, and so on permit you take you camera in and even make photos. As the lady said when I asked in Athens “Of course you can make pictures, this art belongs to the people.” Even in Hickory, you can carry your camera inside - but not in Asheville. Obviously they don’t expect many of the large number of tourists who visit Asheville every year to come in here. I did leave my inexpensive camera - we were the only visitors there - and found the art a little bit strange. It seemed to emphasize deformity of body to an excessive, even obsessive degree. I did record, mentally, and thought about sketching some of the exhibits later, but then figured out that I would have to wear a paper bag over my head and have my hands tied behind my back if we ever came back. On the first floor was a fine exhibition of Cherokee carvings and that was well worth viewing. But if you have an expensive camera, leave it in the trunk of your car or somewhere else, or just skip the museum - there is a lot of better art outside. And if you have an iPhone, or Blackberry, or cell phone or iPod or any of the other small things that make perfectly good photos, and audio, and video, then - well, the Asheville Art Museum is so far behind the times, they probably still believe in Don't Ask Don't Tell.

On to the the Sanctuary of Stuff. Fabulous time there. This place is pure Asheville, and is filled with “stuff” (of course) just begging for you to fall in love with it and take it home with you. You want a really “unusual” (but proper) gift for someone? This is the best place in the world to come. They got it and you don't even know what it is - yet. They were also serving wine and snacks. The Sanctuary of Stuff is Asheville at its BEST.

Supper was at Tupelo Honey. Good, but not fantastic - not like their lunches are. We’ve never been there for breakfast but have heard that they are otherworldly. Next trip, we promise!

2009.1120Fr0800. Next morning came in with heavy fog at 42° but quickly cleared. Went to Over Easy for breakfast. But it seemed grim to me, even for Asheville, and no one waited on me so I walked up the street for a breakfast burrito at the Green Sage - it was deliciously strange - I knew I wasn't at home, and the coffee was great too.

Pack Square was brilliant in the early morning light which came in and reflected all around the place like a crazy billiard ball bouncing every which way at high speed. Photographed the grinning gargoyle guardians at high magnification from the street as I staggered around underneath them looking straight up in a brisk wind, gyrating around on the sidewalk like the morning light bouncing in. More photos then check out of the hotel.

The River Arts District is amazing. Well, it’s Asheville. The main feeling I took away from there was that of “Individualization”. This is the work of artists who are passionately climbing their own tree. It is incredibly good and incredibly bad at the same time. You want a piece of art that will be worth a million dollars in a hundred years? This is the place to come and get it. The devil is in the details.

We stopped at the Dancing Bear Toy Store, no longer to shop for our five children but now for our six grandchildren. The joys continue to pour out, and Dancing Bear is always ready. But I can’t say what we bought - or even IF we bought ANYthing. My lips are sealed. At least until Christmas!

We said goodbye to Asheville in the India Garden. As usual, we fell to our knees as we walked through its doors. Overcome by the smell of its food we nonetheless made it through the buffet line and turned our bodies into temples of gourmeyic glory. Then, an hour later we were back in Hickory. Still licking our chops.